“The Substance” is a horror film with nauseating practical effects and an incredibly prevalent theme that tackles the pressures of beauty standards. It is described by Variety as a “disarmingly grotesque and weirdly fun… feminist body-horror film.” The director and writer, Coralie Fargeat, creates a frighteningly immersive and chilling watching experience; one that is not just meant to terrify the viewer but leave them thinking.
The combination of the eerie score, created by Benjamin Stefanski, also known as Raffertie, and the simple yet unique cinematography, done by Benjamin Kračun, pairs together perfectly to create something both memorable and absurd. The effects are hard to forget; moments from the film have haunted viewers many days later.
Elisabeth Sparkle, played by Demi Moore, is a TV personality who is fired once she turns 50 years old. Afterward, she is offered a ‘substance’ which promises to create a being that is a new youthful and perfect version of herself. Elisabeth’s variant is played by the talented Margaret Qualley.
Consistent close-ups of Qualley’s body were intentional choices of cinematography meant to disturb the viewer. However, it is obvious that the uncomfortably lengthy and invasive scenes we’re used to, as stated by Alyssa Wilkinson of The New York Times, remind the audience of “what the movies have done to our perceptions of what a body should be.”
The treatment of women in society has endured many transformations throughout history. However, one thing has stayed consistent: women are treated differently based on whether they fit social standards for beauty. If a woman can’t conform to society’s expectations, she risks being ostracized and fading into obscurity.
The message of this film can seem repetitive since many works of art have discussed it in the past. However, the elements that make this film unique and so effective are the stylistic choices regarding the visceral horror and stomach-turning visuals.
Presenting a simple premise, one that is unfortunately often disregarded and pushed aside as an over-exaggeration, in such a vile way makes viewers think about the meaning of the film and therefore question the treatment of women throughout history and present day.
While it is true that treatment of women progressed over time, there are still changes to be made. In 2017, Allure magazine released an article discussing the importance of altering the way people speak about the aging process. The author, Michelle Lee, states that through incorrect language, “we’re subtly reinforcing the message that aging is a condition we need to battle.”
Women are often faced with expectations of beauty that are completely unobtainable for the average person. Unless a woman is wealthy and can spend a vast amount of time on self-preservation, the results of aging are entirely inevitable, so it should never be used as a reason for shame. Society’s response to seeing a woman be worn down from life is often judgment and disgust, when really, it is a blessing to grow old. It is something many people don’t get to do. Being able to see the way a long life has impacted someone in a physical way is a beautiful thing, and it should be embraced.
The film ends with the variant wanting to return to Elisabeth’s initial physical appearance. This full circle moment is a result of the drastic choices made by Elisabeth throughout the film to ensure her youth. The arc of losing herself due to the necessity of being the youngest, most beautiful version she could is mirrored in real life through the trends created for women to reduce the effects of the natural aging process.
Women become so obsessed with the idea of looking as youthful as possible that they forget to live genuinely; they lose the ability to enjoy life, and eventually, they lose themselves.
